Harvest Restaurant: Good Food You Can Feel Good About

February 12th, 2008 by Cindy Au · No Comments

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In a state more famously known for its beer and brats, Harvest Restaurant has remained a culinary testament to the bustling counterculture that thrives in the politically conscious, wayward middle-child city better known as Madison, WI. Harvest has all the flair of a classy fine-dining restaurant with none of the pretension. This is the Midwest, after all, and while we appreciate the finer things in life, it’s not uncommon to walk into a 4-star restaurant and see an entire table sporting matching Packer’s sweatshirts.

Harvest boasts a menu inspired entirely by locally grown produce, no small feat considering four months out of the year are dominated by the inhospitable Midwestern winter. Throughout the year, Harvest also plays host to varied culinary events, each serving as a veritable homage to the slow food revolution (thanks to owner Tami Lax’s commitment and vision) and incorporating playful culinary creations inspired by foods ranging from the American mulefoot hog to the heirloom tomato; the white truffle to garlic.

On this particular wintry evening, I took the opportunity to see how Harvest would re-imagine its seasonal menu for Madison’s hectic Restaurant Week. I was relieved to see that the dining room was pleasantly calm, the warm lighting of the dining room allowing me to forget for a moment that it’s only 15 degrees outside.

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While many prix fix menus leave your eyes darting anxiously for more choices, Harvest presented a deftly balanced menu aimed at satisfying even the choosiest of eaters. For my first course, I tried the marinated squid with citrus and black olive salad, an artfully rebellious mix that combined the slightly sweet and lemony flavor of the marinated squid with light shavings of fresh fennel, slices of bittersweet grapefruit, and a hint of black olives. For round two, I opted for the slow roasted beef shortribs with potato puree, roasted vegetables, and red wine au jus. The beef was tender, infused with the sweet red wine au jus, and melt-in-your-mouth perfect. The seasonal vegetables included sweet potatoes, winter squash, and pearl onions, all slow roasted and incredibly tender. For dessert, I couldn’t resist the panna cotta with blood orange compote, the Italian answer to flan. This milky white dollop of creamy perfection was smooth, with just a hint of vanilla that never overpowered its blood orange companion. What can I say, by the dessert course, I was completely smitten.

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It’s hard not to love Harvest. From their commitment to supporting local farms and organic produce, to their innovative community food events, Harvest is one of the Midwest’s best restaurants. The price point is usually a bit higher than during Restaurant Week; a 3-course meal with wine would run you about $60 including tax and tip. While overall I enjoyed the prix fix, the regular menu is definitely more adventurous (on one recent visit I had prosciutto-wrapped frog legs that still haunt my food-inspired dreams…). If you want to feel good for loving good food, Harvest is your place. You can even wear your favorite team’s sweatshirt, and no one will blink an eye.

Tags: Sustainability · food · reviews

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